In 1713 the French built one of the world's greatest fortresses, at Louisbourg on Cape Breton Island. It guarded the rich fishery of the North Atlantic and defended the St. Lawrence River route against attacks by the English. Despite its powerful cannons and thick walls, the English captured Louisbourg twice: in 1745 and again in 1758. The first time, France recovered Louisbourg by treaty, but after the second capture the English demolished the fort and the town.

Today, the Fortress of Louisbourg is one of Canada's most important historic sites. Part of the fortifications, many buildings, the town quay, and several streets of homes and shops have been rebuilt.

Another great day, this Monday the 24th. The gods are surely watching down on us to ensure an enjoyable tourism day. So without wasting a moment we were off early and headed toward Fort Louisbourg, via the small city of Sydney. We had to make a short stop to get that truck tire fixed. A local tire shop made short work of getting the nail out and patching us up. Those friendly folks took us straight away.

We drove along highway 22, past the modern day town of Louisbourg and on to the National Park of Fortress Louisbourg. That is the site of the re-constructed town and its protective fort. It was about 10:05 AM when we parked the truck and walked over to the visitors' center. Admission for adults under 65 (we still are too young for senior discounts here) is $10.00 Canadian.

The displays and pictures at the visitors' center are very well done. You get a pretty good feeling for what the place is all about and then you arrive at the bus stop. The only way for tourists to enter the park itself is by bus. The short half mile to the walking entrance gives you your first look at the fortress. My first impression was of its size, much larger than expected. Then you realize that the complex includes the old town as well as the fortifications. It's impressive and especially so on such a clear sunny day.

Staff dressed as Frenchmen of the early 1700's serve as guides and interpreters. Men and women, young and no so young, serve as hosts at various gateways, doorways and buildings in the area. They speak as if it is still 1735 or so, referring to events of the time and personalities who controlled their lives. We conversed at length with some of them, playing along with the charade and making inquiries from the perspective of a visitor of that time.

Everything at the site is a reconstruction of what flourished there over 250 years ago. When the English abandoned it, after seizing it from the French, it began to slide into near oblivion. For many years the place suffered from neglect, bad weather, and plundering local fishermen. Only a variety of historical documents recorded a description what was once an important town and military installation. And it was those documents, plus some modern techniques of archeology, that enabled the Canadian government to faithfully reproduce what had once been there.

Unemployed locals and fishermen were turned into builders and craftsmen. Their efforts began in 1961 and what one sees now is the result of a continuing work in progress. About a fourth of the original town and fortress has been restored, but even that was an impressive effort and it has been faithfully done. Today Parks Canada, their national park service, maintains and operates the facility. It's open only from May to October, 9:30 A.M. to 5:00 P.M..

From the elegant residence of the governor to the jail cell for miscreants, the conditions for inhabitants are quite thoroughly reproduced. Craftsmen and trademen within the fortress are represented by modern players practicing the techniques of the time. One of the most interesting was a woman making lace. That was a laborious process and fascinating to watch. Watching the blacksmith putter with bending a heated iron rod one gets the impression that he hadn't a whole lot to do and works at appearing to work whenever tourists enter the forge area.

We stopped in the old hotel for coffee and a ginger cookie, served at a wooden table with benches. The first things that caught my eye were the tablecloths. They were a loosely woven material like sheets, but very wrinkled, soft and seemingly more appropriate for use on a bed rather than tables. Other patrons, those having a full meal, were wearing big bibs. That reminds us of what tourists get in Williamsburg, Virginia today. It's all very quaint.