By Phil Rowe
Near the Continental Divide in west central New Mexico is a high mountain lake that should interest canoeists or touring kayakers. It's south of Interstate-40 and east of Gallup, not too far from the Indian village of Ramah. This is ranching country, up in the pine covered hills with meadows and sage brush. The lake itself is fed mainly by snow melt and known by locals as a good trout fishing hole.
Ramah Lake is not large, perhaps no more than a mile long, oriented generally north-south, barely a half mile wide when waters are the highest in early summer. In late summer and fall it can shrink considerably. But it's a delightful place to paddle and see the breathtaking terrain, while enjoying a day on the water.
Access to the lake is most convenient from the south end. There's a boat ramp and a small campground within easy walk of the water. I prefer to go there in the early autumn, when cottonwoods and high country aspens display their brilliant yellows. Scrub oak and other bushes add reddish hues. All this is set against azure skies and framed by rocky cliffs. There's another advantage to Fall paddling and that is the lower likelihood of annoying winds. New Mexico in the Spring is famous for blustery winds that make paddling more work than fun.
At the northern end of the lake one finds a few ranch homes and broad meadows that fan out to the water's edge. This private property is often dotted with grazing cattle that look at a passing canoe or kayak with curiosity. If you want to get out and stretch your legs, do so on the eastern shore, away from dwellings and feeding livestock. There are pines along the shore to offer welcome shade in the mid-day heat. A narrow little-used dirt road winds its way along the lake.
The view across to the western shore is spectacular, especially when the sun bathes the sheer cliffs and colorful rocks. Whether scanning the scene northward or back to the southern end where you put in, this is a terrific place. Though there are a few homesteads on the upper end, you get the feeling that this is wilderness country to be savored and respected.
The campground mentioned above is not especially inviting when it's wet and muddy from early snow melt and runoff. I suggest using the higher and drier facilities at El Morro National Monument, a few miles to the east. That too is a place not to be missed if you are in the area.